Turn left on to Calle San Agustín, cross Plaza de la Santísima Faz, and pass under the archways into Plaza de Ayuntamiento, site of the Baroque Town Hall (14).It was bombed by the French in 1691; the Solomonic columns and 35m twin towers were built in the 1700s.Veer right down a series of zigzagging stairs to the Water Museum (12).Continue straight, passing the 18th-century Convento de las Monjas (13) on Plaza de la Virgen del Remedio.At the entrance of the castle, look for a clearing on the first bend of the road and follow the rocky trail along the western walls and along a series of steps leading into La Ereta Park (11) (10am to 11pm daily), with its pine trees and fine views.
Check in Dominating the harbour is the sprawling Meliá (6) at Plaza del Puerto 3 (00 34 965 205 000; melia.com).
Window shopping The main shopping streets are Avenida Maisonnave (16) and Avenida de Alfonso X El Sabio (17).
For fashion, head to Plaza Calvo Sotelo (18), where you'll find Purificación Garcia at No 13 (00 34 965 204 629; purificaciongarcia.es) and Bimba & Lola (00 34 965 203 026; bimbaylola.com).
The hotel's 544 rooms all have sea views and free Wi-Fi. The Hostal Les Monges Palace (7) at Calle San Agustín 4 (00 34 965 21 5046; lesmonges.es) provides a more intimate option. Mediterránea Plaza (8) at Plaza del Ayuntamiento 6 (00 34 965 210 188; eurostarsmediterraneaplaza.com) is a good budget option with friendly staff, spacious rooms and a rooftop terrace. Take a view Sitting atop Mount Benacantil are the ruins of Castillo de Santa Barbára (9) (00 34 966 377 034; castillodesantabarbara.com; 10am to 8pm daily; free), an impressive ninth-century fortress.
It is housed in a century-old mansion, and the 22-room property oozes character, thanks due in large part to its eccentric owner, Pedro Picazo. Take the lift (10) from Calle Juan Bautista Lafora (€2.40; 10am to 7.30pm) to the El Macho area at the top of the castle for 360‑degree city views.